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Jim Grant Tech Tips Jim Grant Tech Tips
A collection of helpful articles based on reader submissions
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  Jim Grant's Tech TipsJim Grant's Tech Tips
Below is a collection of Jim Grant's Tech Tips sorted by Vehicle Make. These Tech Tips were answers to questions submitted to Jim by ALLDATAdiy.com users over the course of many years.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email us.
 
 

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  Jim Grant's Tech Tips

'95 Honda Civic, Blower Motor not Working

Q: I found out that my blower wasn't working in my ‘95 Honda Civic. I just changed my blower motor resistor and the blower still doesn’t work. Where else should I check to see where the problem may be?

- Kevin

A: First you should know that there are 2 fuses for the blower motor on your Honda. One is a control fuse located in the under-dash fuse & relay box. This fuse is a 7.5 amp and is labeled fuse #13. This fuse supplies the power to the control side of the blower motor relay which is located in the under hood fuse & relay box. The second fuse is a 20 amp Heater Motor fuse labeled fuse #37 in the under hood fuse & relay box. Before electrical power can get to the blower motor, blower resistor or blower switch, the contacts in the blower motor relay have to be closed by the control side of the system. Now that you know this it is easy to understand that your inspection/diagnosis of your blower system has to start at the fuses, both have to be good for the blower motor to work. If you have a 12 volt test light go to the blower motor, with the key in the on position and the blower switch in the off position, check for power at both wires. The ground side of the blower motor is controlled by the switch. If the blower motor has good brushes and armature there should be power on both wires. If you don’t have power check the blower relay more closely. Then move the blower switch to the high speed or 4th position. At this point you should loose power on the black with blue wire at the blower motor. If this happens and the blower motor still doesn’t work then you have a bad blower motor. If the test light stays lit then you have a bad switch or ground for the switch. The high speed or 4th setting bypasses the blower resistor and goes straight to ground, gets all that other stuff out of the way. Just start from the beginning and follow the path. Just because you can’t see electricity doesn’t mean it’s magic.

 
     
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